As global demand for holistic hair solutions continues to rise, the market for scalp care is projected to exceed $10 billion by 2027, according to Future Market Insights. At the same time, as previously reported by CosmeticsDesign, according to Mintel’s 2024 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends Report, 70% of U.S. consumers are interested in and willing to pay more for beauty and personal care products with mood-boosting qualities, such as de-stressing benefits.
Against this backdrop, beauty industry supplier Presperse has introduced Inawave Polyporus, a new ingredient developed by Inabata France that targets both physical hair health and mood-related benefits, positioning itself at the intersection of scalp care and neurocosmetics.
A medicinal fungus reimagined for modern hair care
Inawave Polyporus is derived from the sclerotia of Polyporus umbellatus, a fungus historically used in Chinese and Japanese medicine, and recent research highlights its potential to support hair regrowth and scalp health.
“Inawave Polyporus was inspired by the dual need for effective hair care and emotional well-being,” Dr. Daphne Benderly, Director of Research & Development at Presperse told CosmeticsDesign.
Dr. Benderly further shared that Presperse’s “clinical studies have shown exciting results: users experienced a 6.3% increase in hair density, a 9.6% reduction in hairless areas, and a remarkable 20% decrease in hair fall.”
She explained that participants in the study also reported enhanced shine and well-being. “What’s especially fascinating is that these positive changes in self-esteem were confirmed not only through surveys but also through EEG (electroencephalogram) measurements,” Benderly noted.
Sustainable extraction through patented eco-technology
Inabata France’s patented eco-extraction process underpins the development of Inawave Polyporus. The method combines microwave technology and vacuum conditions to minimize oxidation and preserve the integrity of bioactive compounds.
“This process is much faster—30 minutes compared to 4.5 hours in a traditional extraction—with significantly lower energy requirements and up to 18 times less CO₂ emissions,” said Dr. Benderly. “It’s a gentle, low-temperature method that delivers both performance and sustainability.”
Addressing #StressHairLoss with a neurocosmetic approach
The neurocosmetic positioning of Inawave Polyporus directly responds to increasing consumer concerns about stress-related hair loss. According to Dr. Benderly, the extract works on multiple fronts.
“Inawave Polyporus directly tackles the increasingly common issue of stress hair loss by providing a comprehensive solution that unites both physical hair health and emotional wellness,” she said. “It fortifies hair follicles, promotes healthy hair cycles, and reduces inflammation, creating an ideal environment for hair regrowth.”
Clinical participants also reported psychological benefits. “They felt more relaxed, experienced a boost in self-esteem, and generally felt happier and more confident,” Dr. Benderly added.
Applications across product formats and claims
The versatility of Inawave Polyporus supports broad formulation use across multiple product types, including serums, conditioners, hair masks, and more, said Dr. Benderly.
Specifically, she illustrated that stress-relief scalp serums and indulgent hair masks are standout applications. “These serums don’t just target hair thinning—they can also soothe scalp irritation caused by stress,” she said. “And in self-care formats, the ingredient becomes part of a holistic experience that enhances emotional well-being.”
Beyond topicals, Benderly sees potential in ingestible formats. “Natural wellness hair supplements infused with the extract offer an integrative approach to hair care,” she said, highlighting the appeal to consumers seeking to combine traditional medicine with modern wellness routines.
According to Dr. Benderly, Inawave Polyporus gives brands an opportunity to build product lines that connect physical beauty and emotional health.
The ingredient “uniquely differentiates itself through its ability to enhance both physical beauty and emotional health,” she concluded, “aligning with key trends in sustainability, wellness, and neurocosmetic innovation.”