More Than 100 Years Of Signed Jewels Featured At Bonhams London Sale

Jewels from French jewelry house Chaumet are among several signed pieces being offered at Bonhams London jewelry auction on September 21 at its New Bond Street headquarters.

The 244-lot sale includes pieces from historic French, British, Italian and U.S. jewelry houses such as Cartier, Bulgari, Grima, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels, spanning more than 100 years. Several of the Tiffany & Co. jewels include pieces by some of its most revered designers: Jean Schlumberger, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti.

Two important Chaumet pieces are among the top lots in the sale. They are:

• A rare Chaumet diamond necklace, circa 1900. The chain is designed as a ribbon of old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, suspending a fringe of drops pavé-set with diamonds. Each diamond has a rose-cut diamond laurel-leaf surmount. Chaumet first designed this jewel in 1896 when it was commissioned to make Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria’s tiara for her wedding to Philippe, Duke of Orleans. Several versions of the popular design were made afterward including this lot. It is the number three lot of the sale with an estimate of £120,000 – £150,000 ($150,000 – $190,000).

A more recent Chaumet jewelry suite has even more value, according to Bonhams, as the number two lot of the sale. A ruby and diamond “Tsouka” collar, bracelet and pendant earclips, 1994 (top photo). It’s composed of interlocking tear-shaped links, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, accented by oval-cut rubies. The rubies in the suite total 35.47 carats and the diamonds total 79.52 carats. Its estimate is £130,000 – £180,000 ($160,000 – $230,000).

Another top lot in the sale is a diamond necklace by British jewelers, Asprey & Garrard, 2000, set with pear-shaped diamonds, graduating in size towards a central cluster of oval and marquise-cut diamonds, on a marquise-cut diamond clasp. Total diamond weight estimated to be 59.52 carats total. £60,000 – £80,000 ($75,000 – $100,000).

The number one lot in the sale is a 6.98-carat brilliant-cut D color, internally flawless diamond with an estimate of £280,000 – £350,000 ($350,000 – $440,000).

Art Deco jewels ranging in dates from 1920 to 1935 play an important role in the sale. Among the top pieces are:

• An Art Deco sapphire and diamond platinum ring, circa 1920, centered with a 7.12-carat fancy-cut sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir surrounded by a single-cut diamond with shoulders accented by diamonds and cabochon sapphires. Its estimate is £60,000 – £90,000 ($75,000 – $110,000).

• A Cartier Art Deco diamond brooch, circa 1925. Formerly owned by important British collector, Maud Russell (1891-1982). The brooch has an openwork plaque design with arrow-shaped terminals and is set throughout with various cut diamonds. Its estimate is £25,000 – £35,000 ($31,000 – $44,000).

• Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ‘Disques’ platinum earclips, circa 1935. Each earring is topped with spiraling pavé-set diamonds. Its estimate is £20,000- £30,000 ($25,000 – $38,000).

Tiffany & Co. plays an oversized role in the sale. Among the highlights:

• A Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. gem-set seahorse brooch, circa 1960. Bonhams describes the pieces as “exceptional and sought-after.” The seahorse is adorned with circular-cut peridots accented by brilliant-cut diamonds and a circular-cut ruby eye. Its estimate is £20,000- £30,000 ($25,000 – $38,000).

• An 18k yellow gold, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. ‘Doughnut’ bangle, circa 1981. Its estimate is £12,000 – £15,000 ($15,000 – $19,000).

• Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. “positive negative” earrings inlaid with black jade and gold spots mounted in 18k yellow gold, circa 1980. Its estimate is £1,500 – £2,000. ($1,900 – $2,500).

• A Tiffany & Co., Art Nouveau gold, cushion-shaped sapphire and old brilliant-cut diamond hinged bangle with scroll motifs, circa 1886. Its estimate is £4,000 – £6,000 ($5,000 – $7,500).

• A Tiffany & Co., Art Nouveau gold, cushion-shaped ruby, and cat’s eye chrysoberyl cabochon bangle, circa 1882. Its estimate is £4,000 – £6,000 ($5,000 – $7,500).

• Attributed to Tiffany & Co., Art Nouveau emerald and diamond bangle, circa 1884. Adorned with cloud motifs, and green enamel mandarin accented by rose-cut diamonds. The front inset has three step-cut emeralds between diamonds. Its estimate is £3,000 – £5,000 ($3,800 – $6,300).

Other important signed jewels are as follows:

• A Bulgari colored diamond and diamond “Trombino” ring featuring a 4.80-carat step-cut natural fancy yellow diamond of VVS2 clarity set between graduated baguette-cut diamond shoulders, in a bombé mount, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £50,000- £70,000 ($63,000 – $88,000).

• A Cartier opal, ruby and diamond “Love Bird” brooch, circa 1948. The birds have black opal bodies and buff-top caliber-cut ruby feathers, buff-top marquise-cut ruby eyes and single-cut diamond crests, perching on a branch. Its estimate is £30,000 – £40,000 ($38,000 – $50,000).

• A Boucheron dog brooch, circa 1947, set with ruby bead eyes and an engraved nose. The brooch is among several jewels from the estate of British actress Jean Simmons OBE (1929 – 2010). It was gifted in the 1940s by her husband British film actor Stewart Granger. Its estimate is £15,000 – £20,000 ($19,000 – $25,000).

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