No country does gelato quite like Italy, whose gelatai rival Renaissance masters in dedication to their craft.
In general, gelato contains less fat than ice cream, resulting in a distinctively creamy density. And unlike Roman carbonara or Sicilian arancini, high-quality gelato crops up throughout the country. Flavors, then, invite regional idiosyncrasies, such as Liguria’s basil gelato and Amalfi’s lemon version.
Regardless of where you go, gelato enclosed in metal tins is a sign of quality (as opposed to the the heaping, open-air containers you’ll see at tourist hot spots); use this as a visual cue to choose a gelateria. Yet as with any rule, there are exceptions. So when in doubt, try a few places, since a gelato will set you back at most a few euros.
You shouldn’t have any doubt about the places below, however – any of which will tempt you to order a second portion. These are my six favorite gelaterie in Italy.
1. Cappadonia, Palermo
Forget the question of cup or cone: gelato in Sicily calls for a vessel of brioche, creating a literal ice cream sandwich. For proof of the pairing’s success, head to Cappadonia, which uses locally sourced ingredients, often from regional farmers. Across its three Palermo locations, Cappadonia particularly excels in Sicily’s trademark pistachio. The gelateria’s version appears muted when compared to the electric green tubs found elsewhere – indicating that what’s inside matters more than appearance.
How to make it happen: Visit Cappadonia on Via Vittorio Emanuele right when it opens at 10am. Sicilian brioche classifies as breakfast, which means gelato con brioche is – yes – acceptable early in the day. To further embrace the island’s breakfast customs, head to nearby Casa Stagnitta, which makes Palermo’s best granita, an icier alternative to gelato.
2. Pavé, Milan
The last time I visited Milan, I went to Pavé on Via Felice Casati every morning for a fig tart. When I realized my all-time favorite bakery also operated two gelaterie, I headed there straight away. Indeed, Pavé treats its gelato with the same attention to detail as any of its flaky croissants – yet Pavé Gelati is at its best when blurring the lines between the two. The holiday season, for example, yields a panettone-based gelato, while a toasted, gelato-stuffed bombolone, Italy’s answer to a donut, is available year round.
How to make it happen: Pavé’s Via Cesare Battisti gelateria opens and closes earlier than the one on Via Cadore, so plan accordingly. At both, Pavé also bills itself as a granita shop, and sells Sicilian-style granita and fruit sorbets.
3. Come il Latte, Rome
I frequently visit Rome, not to marvel at the Colosseum but to return to my happy place: Come il Latte. The gelateria’s name means “Like Milk,” and its flavors range from fun (Ciao is gelato with blue cheese gelato) to fundamental (a stellar Fior di Latte, and a mascarpone cookies-and-cream). Come il Latte truly shines in how it serves its gelato: in homemade cones, topped with a drizzle of your choice of chocolate. The effect is akin to an artisanal Drumstick – just one you won’t find at any ice cream truck.
How to make it happen: Visit Come il Latte in tandem with another Roman necessity: pinsa, the local flatbread-like style of pizza. Pair your gelato with a few slices from Pinsere, an unassuming yet top-notch pizzeria just up the street on Via Flavia. It’s up to you which course comes first.
4. La Strega Nocciola, Florence and Rome
As a summer intern in Florence, I took most of my lunch breaks at La Strega Nocciola, which translates to “The Hazelnut Witch.” It was indeed their crisp yet sweet hazelnut flavor that bewitched me into returning day after day. La Strega Nocciola prides itself on using natural, in-season ingredients (exhibit A: that divine hazelnut), and offers both dairy-free and less-traditional flavors, such as cinnamon with white chocolate.
How to make it happen: Steps from Florence’s Duomo, the compact Via Ricasoli location tends to be crowded throughout the afternoon. Opt instead for the larger Via de’ Bardi shop, which draws fewer customers, even with its proximity to Ponte Vecchio.
5. Dassie, Treviso
While Treviso’s family-run Dassie is in Northern Italy, it serves some of the country’s best chocolate gelato – if not the best. In 2010, Stefano Dassie won the Italian Championship of Gelato Makers; just a few years later, Dassie received Gambero Rosso’s award for best chocolate gelato. That chocolate comes light and creamy, yet strong in flavor: the product of high-quality ingredients.
How to make it happen: Dassie runs five Italian gelaterie, most in or around central Treviso, which is widely known as the birthplace of tiramisu. While chocolate remains Dassie’s magnum opus, the gelateria has offered a tiramisu flavor to celebrate Treviso’s Tiramisù World Cup. If you ever see the option on Dassie’s menu, don’t hesitate: you can kill two dessert birds with one…cone.
6. Cesare, Reggio Calabria
When visiting Reggio Calabria, you won’t have to look hard to find Cesare: if the gelateria’s snaking line doesn’t give it away, its sea-foam-green exterior (and, after dark, its bright neon signage) surely will. The kiosk’s vibrant shade mirrors the adjacent Mediterranean – though Cesare is far more than just a pretty facade. The Southern Italy institution has held its coastal locale since 1918, serving gelato in flavors both classic and deeply Calabrian. Opt for the bergamot or tartufo flavor, both of which have regional roots.
How to make it happen: You can’t eat inside this grab-and-go gelateria, so take your serving for a stroll along the Lungomare. One of Italy’s most scenic stretches, the palm-tree-framed pathway follows the curve of the Mediterranean, with Sicily in the distance.
More you need to know about gelato
Depending on where you go, some shops – such as Rome’s historic Giolitti – may have you pay for your gelato size before you choose and receive your flavors. Don’t be alarmed if the ordering process seems, well, out of order. Every gelateria follows its own system – and each one knows what it is doing.
Oh, and if you’re more of a sundae person, use the phrase “con panna” to enjoy a dollop of fresh cream.
