Paris is a city made to gazed upon – when Haussmann deconstructed its neighborhoods in the late 19th century, he created avenues that afford uninterrupted views of the city’s important monuments. The most famous is, of course, the Eiffel Tower.
But when you visit the city and climb up this architectural icon, your view naturally doesn’t feature one of the most recognizable structures in the world; a bit of a letdown when you’ve spent half your day battling through crowds. This guide takes you away from the usual packed tourist hubs to soak up alternative views of the skyline; from elegant parks to a 19th-century observatory, slip away from the hubbub to see Paris from seven new angles.
1. Parc Saint-Cloud
Best for views outside the city
Just on the edge of the Parisian banlieue (suburb) Boulogne-Billancourt is the Domaine national de Saint-Cloud. This national estate features Marie Antoinette’s flower garden, a variety of sculptures and the elevated Rond de la Balustrade. From this viewpoint, you have an incredible view of the south-west of Paris, while behind you stretches a lavish avenue of grass framed by trees. Take your time exploring the domaine gardens and their sculptures.
Detour: Once you’re ready to leave behind the expanses of the estate, head back across the Seine to the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil. This beautiful botanical garden features a collection of greenhouses filled with 6000 species of plant that make it worth a visit all year round.
2. Tour Montparnasse
Best view with a meal
Tour Montparnasse rises like an obelisk in the 15th arrondissement and feels not entirely dissimilar to Sauron’s tower, minus the flaming eye. Its reflective glass exterior casts a long shadow over the neighborhood but once you’re inside and have made it up to the 56th floor, you can enjoy a 360-degree view of Paris from the viewing deck.
There is the rooftop viewing area, or if you prefer to enjoy your views with food or a drink, the decadent Ciel de Paris restaurant is on the top floor. However, the menu reflects the elevated location with Michelin prices, minus the quality.
3. BHV Rooftop
Best for a view with a cocktail
It’s hard to find views in the center of Paris where buildings are all a uniform six stories or less, but tucked up above the men’s section of the BHV department store is the Terraza Mikuna – formerly the BHV Perchoir. This bar is open year-round, but your view of Paris is somewhat obstructed by clear, plastic sheeting in the winter.
If you want to feel surrounded by the city’s landmarks, this is the spot for you. From the rooftop, you can almost reach out and touch the gray-paneled roof of the Palais Garnier opera house and the Madeleine church. The prices are sadly as steep as the staircases to get up there but if you don’t mind a few judgemental stares, you can always head up to have a look and change your mind about staying.
4. Parc de Belleville
Best for a view with urban art
Far away from the crush of people around the Sacré-Cœur, you can find a similar view of the left bank in this 20th arrondissement park. Opened in 1988, the Parc de Belleville is filled with vines, planted to mark the viticulture formerly found in this part of the city. This is a truly local park usually filled with the sounds of children playing and dog walkers.
In between flower beds, grassy stretches for summer picnics and vegetal winding paths, you can work your way up to a terrace that opens out to the city. The upper section of this pavilion offers a view of the city framed by columns covered with street art by local artist Seth and a collection of mosaics created in collaboration with children from the arrondissement.
Planning tip: Sitting at 180m, Parc de Belleville is the highest park in Paris and the walk up is not for the faint of heart. However, you can easily avoid the burn by taking the metro to Pyrénées station and enjoying a gentle walk down to the entrance.
5. The Sorbonne Observatory
Best for a view with a guide
If you want views and a science lecture, a guided tour at the Sorbonne Observatory is the ideal way to see Paris. The Observatory opens two to three nights a week to welcome groups of five people for tours organized by the Astronomy Society of France. The visit lasts for two hours and starts with an introduction to science and astronomy at the Sorbonne, before taking you up onto the observation deck to look through the telescope and enjoy incredible views across the city.
Planning tip: At the end of each month tickets for the following month are released on the official website – given their limited number it is essential to book ahead.
6. Parc Buttes-Chaumont
Best for a view with a picnic
The 19th is not a well-frequented arrondissement, but the charming Buttes-Chaumont is Paris’ fifth-largest park and well worth the detour. Some weekends you’ll find a varied and well-priced flea market, or brocante, sprung up along the railings at the top of the park. This is a popular spot with locals, from the stylish Parisiennes in perfectly-cut jackets picking through designer brands to families browsing children’s toys.
On Thursday and Friday evenings, Rosa Bonheur serves wood-fired pizzas and drinks to a younger crowd who have migrated up the hill after sunbathing in the park. Summer Sundays are my favorite time to visit Rosa, when it’s packed with some of the city’s most well-dressed LGBTIQ+ crowd and filled with enough music and dancing to keep the weekend alive for a few more hours. Even without these two temptations to draw you in, this park also offers a beautiful view out towards Montmartre and the Sacré-Cœur.
As you follow the looping paths upwards, you’re walking over reclaimed brownfield land and an example of early urban restoration. Opened in 1867, the park was designed by Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand to breathe new life into a space previously used as a quarry and dump. It’s also the site of his experiments with concrete as a material – the fabricated grotto is one example. While Buttes-Chaumont may not be as famous as the Eiffel Tower, the 64ft suspension bridge stretching across the park was designed by Gustave Eiffel.
Planning tip: Visit the park in summer to enjoy some space away from the crowds and the luxury of grass that you’re actually allowed to sit on. If you go on a Tuesday, Friday, or Sunday you can stop by the Marché Place des Fêtes from 7.30am to 1.30pm to pick up a range of delicious picnic treats.
7. Arc de Triomphe
Best for evening views of the city
The Arc de Triomphe is a monument that deserves a visit in its own right, but it also offers some of the most breathtaking views of Paris on this list. It’s where I take all of my visitors and one of the few monuments I’m always happy to return to.
After navigating your way through the confusing underground passages beneath the roundabout and clambering up its 284 stairs, you emerge onto the panoramic top of the arch with Paris spread beneath you. Because it was built on a rise at the start of one of Haussmann’s most lavish boulevards, the Champs-Élysées, the avenue sweeps away in front of you suddenly free from the rush of crowds and traffic.
It’s a beautiful view at any time, but I always aim to be there at sunset. You’ll see the sky shift from blue to a delicate pink and orange, before settling gently into a dusky gray. As the light fades, rows of street lights shine like golden baubles strung along the lines of the avenues below.
Planning tip: Avoid queuing for tickets by booking ahead on the official website – head straight to the entrance and begin your climb.
