The top three ingredients innovations at in-cosmetics Global 2024 as chosen by our global editors

Usually found at their desks in Singapore, Chicago and Antibes, CosmeticsDesign’s editors came together in Paris for in-cosmetics Global 2024​ this spring to get a worldwide perspective of what’s new and what’s next in the beauty industry.

Amanda Lim, editor, CosmeticsDesign-Asia: ManukaDerMX​

A natural solution to scalp and hair health caught editor Amanda Lim’s eye this year.

ManukaDerMX, an active extracted from manuka leaves by New Zealand-based Organic Bioactive, has high antioxidant properties to preserve coloured hair while also caring for the scalp.
“It preserves dyed hair and helps with scalp irritation,”​ said Lim. “I love that it solves a problem people have in a very natural way.”​

Kirsty Doolan, editor, CosmeticsDesign-Europe: Neuroglow​

It was Givaudan’s breakthrough ingredient that impressed Kirsty Doolan meanwhile, tapping into the trend for beauty products that promote wellbeing​.

“Neuroglow stimulates melatonin production and preps the skin for tanning,” she says, “which is great for someone who finds it hard to get a suntan.”​

Doolan also noted the claim that it “promotes the release of beta-endorphin, oxytocin and vitamin D”​ and said that this potential for a topical-use product to make the wearer feel happier would likely be a winner with many skin care consumers.

Cassandra Stern, editor, CosmeticsDesign-USA: PinoPlex​

Mibelle Biochemistry’s PinoPlex works by smoothing a rough hair cuticle, strengthening it and thus making the hair strands stronger.
US editor Cassandra Stern explained how it worked with pinecones that are harvested for their seeds, using this byproduct to create a novel hair care ingredient, rather than just throw it away.
She also noted that Mibelle observed how pinecones opened and closed depending on the level of moisture, and then made this link to the “opening and closing of the hair cuticle”.​